What autumn renovation actually does
Over the summer a lawn builds up thatch: a mat of dead grass, moss and debris sitting on top of the soil. A little is healthy. Too much holds water at the surface, smothers new growth and gives moss a perfect home.
At the same time, feet, mowers and wet winters compact the soil underneath. Roots run short of air, water sits in puddles, and the grass thins out. Renovation deals with both problems, in order.
The order matters
- Moss treatment, if it's needed.Moss is killed about two weeks before scarifying, so the machine pulls out dead moss rather than spreading live spores across the lawn.
- Scarifying.Usually two passes at different angles to lift thatch and moss. All the arisings are raked up and taken away.
- Aeration.Hollow tines pull out cores of soil and are the right choice for badly compacted lawns. Solid tines are gentler and suit lawns in better condition.
- Overseeding.A seed mix chosen for the lawn: hard-wearing ryegrass mixes for family lawns, fine fescues and bents for ornamental or shaded lawns.
- Top dressing.A sandy loam brushed into the holes and over the seed, to improve the soil and protect the seed as it germinates.
- Autumn feed.Lower in nitrogen and higher in potassium. It strengthens roots for winter rather than pushing out soft leaf that the frost will damage.
When it should be done
Early autumn is best. The soil is still warm from summer, the rain has come back, and weeds are slowing down, so new grass gets a clear run. In North Wales that window usually runs from late August to around the middle of October. After that, seed germinates slowly and patchily as the soil cools.
Spring renovation works, but it's second best. The new grass has to compete with germinating weeds and often runs into a dry May.
Treatments, applied properly
Weed killers and moss killers are plant protection products, and applying them for paying customers needs the right certificates. I hold PA1 and PA6, so products are chosen for the problem, applied at the correct rate, and recorded. In most lawns, spot-treating weeds works better than spraying the whole thing.
A lawn full of moss is usually telling you something: too much shade, compacted soil, poor drainage or acidity. Killing the moss without dealing with the cause means it comes back. I'll tell you which it is.
What's included
- A proper look at the lawn: thatch, compaction, drainage, shade and grass type
- Moss treatment where needed
- Scarifying, with everything raked up and taken away
- Hollow or solid tine aeration
- Overseeding with a mix matched to the lawn
- Top dressing
- Autumn feed
- Aftercare notes: watering, the first cut and mowing height
Questions
How soon can we use the lawn again?
Light use is fine straight away. Keep heavy use off the overseeded areas for three or four weeks, and give it the first cut when the new grass reaches about 7 to 8cm, with the mower set high.
Does a lawn need this every year?
Most lawns benefit from a light scarify every autumn and a full renovation every two or three years. If yours only needs the lighter job, that's what I'll quote for.
Can you fix a mossy, shady lawn?
Usually, yes, but the fix depends on why the moss is there. Sometimes it's aeration and drainage. Sometimes it's a shade-tolerant seed mix. Sometimes the honest answer is to turn the darkest corner into planting.
Do you do regular mowing?
Yes, as part of a regular maintenance visit through the growing season.
